«Live to feel ALIVE«, Mike says after yet again another jaw dropping speech is delivered to us young explorers. In this exact moment I think to myself… `living to feel alive` is exactly what we are doing here in Kamchatka.

The moment my eyes open, as I sit up in my sleeping bag, my first frosty exhale, my veins thump and fire under pressure, but It`s not only the returning sun that causes my eye lids to open, it`s the adrenaline and excitement of what is to come for the day. Every day, I rename the best day of my life!

Today the adrenaline was for our plans to summit Avacahinsky Volcano which is 2741 meters high. Once again a b e a u-tiful Russia breakfast down (many thanks to Elena and Elena in the kitchen) the team was straight out the door quick smart with the snow capped mountain in our sights. But our steps slowed as … “hey, hey guys, picture, picture”, ohh Dmitry again? We all laughed =) (our camera man, with his Russia accent). A few happy snaps later we strategically cross a river valley and reach the base of our goal = the foot of the mountain.

The sight from the bottom is amazing, steams of low cloud folding and curling like a wave over the sharp ridges, high cloud formations spin and stretch around the higher peaks, snow blankets the steep valleys covering and hiding unknown dangers. Scanning the ridges, valleys, peaks, and formations with our eyes, we configure a route and start the climb. The altitude increases fast with our determination high, and as we get higher the beauty grows. The view from above of the valleys, linking into the creeks, then to the rivers, really makes you feel on top of life and in control.

Let`s wait and see what this amazing place presents us tomorrow.

Good Night
Love from Hayden

Back to Expedition Timeline

As I lie back in the darkness of the sauna I reflect, something I have been doing a lot of lately.

It seems almost unbelievable to think about my day. The mixture of sounds, smells, thoughts, emotions, terrains, feelings and ideas is enough to fill a week in the life of a normal person, but here I have learnt what it means to literally live life to the fullest and make the most of every second.

Sitting here now in the midst of the snow covered mountains with the Avachinsky volcano we are going to attempt to summit tomorrow towering above us I smile and remember the fear I felt this morning. The deafening sound of the dogs barking and howling drowns out everything. Frantically preparing the harnesses, there are so many things to think about, so many things I have to look out for, so much responsibility that has been given to me. Which dog goes where? Is the anchor in properly? Are the dogs untangled?

I just wish for silence and somebody to go through step by step again what I have to do, just one more time. It is too late for that now, that has already been done, we have all been through the training and now it is up to me to prove myself, I need to be assertive or the dogs will sense my fear. They start to grow impatient as the sled in front leaves. Tug Tug Tug. The sound of howling and barking grows louder. They seem to trigger one another and when one begins the others seem to bark even more. Tug Tug Tug, this time harder, I don’t know how much longer this anchor will hold, these dogs are made for this, for them this is pure bliss, excitement, the thrill of the first powerful launch at the beginning is when they can truly show off their strength and speed. Mikes hand goes up, everybody begins to move away, it is almost time, am I ready? Not being ready is not an option, these dogs have gone. The anchor has been lifted the sled launches forward with a superb acceleration. I am flying through the air, the icy ground means that they can run at their optimum speed. Around the first corner and onto the main track, the sled seems even more rickety than I remember, the ground more uneven, I forget everything I have been taught, I forget to focus and let the dogs take over. I forget that I have a brake. Big mistake.

I am lying on the ground, my dogs have gone running into the distance and I feel like an idiot. First rule: Never let go. I tried not to, but my face that had crashed against the ground protested. I still have a lot to learn. Futilely I try to chase the sled but there is no chance that I will catch up to it now, I just have to hope that somebody further on will be able to stop it for me…

Back in the wooden cabin overlooking the volcano and tundra valley below I smile again, my mind is now wandering to earlier on this evening, sitting in this very spot that I am sat in now, we sit and listen mesmerized as Mike shares stories and educates us with the wisdom he has gathered from his adventures around the world. Tonight it is about survival in the wilderness. I wonder how many people know that a marmot activates the gland that puts it in a defensive attacking mode by lining up with 5 others and rubbing its right leg three times over its ear. It is always wonderful to listen to a story teller who captivates you with their every word and looking around at the faces of my fellow team mates I can see that that is exactly what he is doing. We are so honored to have the opportunity to be able to listen and learn from so many stories from all of the team of experienced mountaineering experts.

The wilderness is such a powerful place. Even the word ‘wilderness’ triggers a strong feeling of excitement in me, today at points with the dogs I was truly alone. Nothing but these 8 magnificent animals and the forest surrounding me it felt so empowering. Yet what can make you feel so strong, excited and free also makes you realize how small you are. As we left the taiga forest behind and began our assent into the more mountainous terrain I began to feel the overwhelming power that the mountains have, volcanoes especially.

All around me the remnants of the 1991 eruption, giant boulders, known as bombs scatter the ground, some as big as 3 meters high. I cannot even see the summit which goes way above the clouds to 2741 meters, all that is visible is the moraine left over by the carving out of the land by the lava flows, glaciers or rivers.

Life is harsher here, yet not so harsh that nothing can grow, looking around on the bare rocks I realize the strength and persistence of nature. I can see the adaptations that the plants have made, the dwarf pines stick low to the ground in an attempt to try and protect themselves from the harsh winds coming in from the ocean, anchoring themselves deep in the fertile soil with their long roots. There are so many things I have learnt on this trip about science, about exploring and about myself, and every day I am here I continue to learn more and more and more.

Ok, time to go and get ready to sleep a dream filled sleep full of dog sledding, bears in the woods, and exploding volcanoes…
 

`Hold on tight’ shouts Maricella but it was too late- as the 8 dogs scramble over the top of my face, just as I thought the pain was over, the sled tied to the back of the dogs skied straight over my head. The dogs sprinted off into the distance and I was left flattened like a pancake over the solid ice.

Suddenly I registered to the sound of my name as I quickly stood up and ran to Maricella who had grabbed the dogs on their way past. We leapt onto the wooden sled and powered forward through the thick snow, as I was hanging on for dear life we swerved to the right and then to the left through the forest, branches and snow flew in every different direction. Later on we swapped positions and it was my turn in the driver’s seat, I clenched onto the handle bars and slowly released my foot off the brake and the force of the wind rushed against my face, it`s only then it hits me where I am and what I am doing and the incredible speeds at which these dogs reach.

The remainder of the day was spent working with the dogs and learning about their characteristics and behavioral manners, which will help us to understand them better for the following days.

The main rule for mushing (dog sledding) is to hold on tight and don`t fall off, this was constantly reinforced and as we learnt from previous experiences that day it was very important ,the dogs do not stop for anything or anyone.

We had to get used to these conditions as the dog sledding was going to be our main form of transport for the next 2 days.

Over supper we discussed the plans for the following days this involved an in depth analysis of the planned route that the dogs would take us and the dangers that our journey involved it was only at this point that the risks became a reality. These dangers included crossing ice topped rivers, encounters with bears, sledding over narrow bridges and reaching incredibly high speeds downhill.

As Young Explorers, it is our responsibility to set up and organize conservation and environmental projects; to give back to the Earth what we take out. We have been given the perfect opportunity to work together to develop and fund programs in Kamchatka. This evening we discussed and gave ideas as a team towards an eco-tourism project that can help to have a positive effect on sustainable tourism on the Kamchatka Peninsula. This project will continue to develop as we as Young Explorers gain more knowledge and information about the place from the local people.

We finished the day off with a traditional game; a great experience to appreciate the place that we are in and the people we are with. Then we all fall asleep in a long line of sleeping bags one team, one mate next to another in the yurt for the last night before heading out and up the volcanoes tomorrow for the next leg of our Kamchatka adventure.

Getting the ideas flowing about how we will make a positive impact here is very exciting. We have learnt a lot about the region and it is at a critical turning point in many ways. We have realized that if we don’t get it right in Kamchatka there will be no more chances.
 

An alarm chimes. Saraya, our Australian YEP, sits up in her sleeping bag and says “But I’ve only just fallen asleep!” Feeling the same way I open one eye to look at my watch in the dark, 2:30am it reads. Back to sleep someone else says, false alarm! A short 3 hours later however, the real alarm goes off and we peel ourselves out of our sleeping bags and stumble through the darkness and the rest of our sleeping team to get kitted up for a morning team exercise and the start of a bitter-sweet day.

Today we had an amazing cultural learning experience in which we entered a traditional ‘jaranga,’ a house of the native people of Kamchatka. We were shown the real way to keep warm-in a reindeer skin-and treated to a mesmerizing traditional dance performance by little Anya.

The highlight of the day was still to come however as we got introduced to the dogs who are going to be our driving force for the next few days. I quickly befriended Dansoor, a blue-eyed sled dog with a talent for dancing (hence the name) and it wasn’t long before we were harnessing up the frantically excited dogs to the sleds for our first sledding experience. I can hardly describe it! With one of us sitting in the sled and another standing and breaking behind, the dogs tore off into the woods and we hung on for dear life. I have never seen such energy and we tried hard to keep up, steering the sled to avoid crashing into piles of snow as we rounded corners and went up and down hills. As I sat on the front of my sled I watched the powerful legs of the dogs in front and marveled at willing and happy they were to use all their energy just to pull us. The sky turned purple and red above the isolated, snowy, tree-scattered landscape and I was struck by how lucky I am to be in this incredible wilderness that is Kamchatka.

Maricella’s blog day 6 & 7

I see a part of the team ahead of me stopping as I realize that it is time to set up camp. Now the time has come to put in place the tips that Mike gave us on how to successfully set up your camp and get situated in practice. After our first night in the tent most of the Young Explorers woke up with not only freezing cold but also with water dripping down on us. We are beginners which can be really dangerous when you are in extreme conditions. This time we get set up much quicker, sleep warmer and know how to keep ourselves more comfortable and better organized. Nevertheless the next morning it is hard to keep up with the speed of Mike and the team who do this like taking their shoes on and off. They get impatient and we are left on our own but since we know that we just have to follow the power lines that transport the energy from the geothermal station to the capital we know where to go.

It wasn’t until around 4pm that we were all together again having a wonderful little tea break. A simple green tea tastes so wonderful when you are out there; feeling this warmth going through your throat down in your stomach is revitalizing and gives everybody the strength to go on. As enjoyable as this moment is it must be short as you get cold immediately when you don’t move. We kept on walking without knowing how much longer we had to go on. We were mentally starting to prepare ourselves for another night of camping outside as it started to get dark when the big 6-wheel truck appeared behind us. A moment of big excitement! Our destination made us all even happier: We were on our way to a hot springs! I will never ever forget this: taking off our horrible stinky thermal underwear, tired, cold, sore after this long day of walking and having the heavy weight of the sled on your hips, changing into our bathing suits, going outside into the freezing cold and then just feeling this hot water on every spot of your body and feeling like this is the best moment of your life. There was no place I would’ve rather been than in Kamchatka in that hot water with all these amazing people.  Life is great!

But to our own disbelieve the day got even better: We had another one hour walk through the dark forest pulling sleds, again, not really knowing where we were going. From far away we heard dogs barking. We had the feeling that this was going to get really awesome: We are welcomed in a warm yurt made of wood, a huge bear fur lying on the floor, we are offered reindeer fur to sit on and then we eat delicious fresh salted salmon with potatoes for dinner. A delicious ending to a great day. We get out our Quechua sleeping bags and mats and in a big circle with all of our 30 feet around the fire in the middle of the yurt and fall sound asleep like little babies.

We feel so fortunate to be here it is hard to put in words. Sometimes we have to hit each other to realize that it is not a dream. We are facing several challenges every day, laughing, joking, discussing, shouting and being angry at each other at different points. But at the end of the day we feel a stronger bond and see ourselves growing as a team.

And now the adventure continues on a different track as we are introduced to the dogs…

Back to Expedition Timeline

2nd of Dec 2010

We are already into the 4th day of the Kamchatka Expedition. Not everything has worked out as planned but that is unfortunately often the case when traveling in Russia. At the last minute we were reduced by one team member as his visa was denied one day before departure. Secondly, and much to our disappointment, entry into the Mutnovsky Geothermal Power plant was not granted to us and thirdly (and most importantly) the harsh weather conditions have constrained our plans to climb Mutnovsky and Goryeliy Volcanoes.

Although this might sound bad, it is not. We are all thrilled to be here and the team spirit is great. The Young Explorers are all reveling in the experience of being in this remote part of Russia and are eager to get out and explore with Mike Horn and learn with our on team geologist Franzsika.

With the help of Martha Madsen, our local Russian connection, we scanned the charts and made our first attempt to summit Mutnovsky Volcano. This experience was a huge wakeup call for all of the Young explorers. It showed them what the elements are really about. We experienced very harsh, changeable weather conditions, with strong winds and temperatures dropping to -20 degrees celcius with wind chill. Wisely we decided not to take on Nature in these conditions, turned back to the Geothermal Plant and abandoned the ascent of Mutnovsky Volcano.

We are at present back at the hostel at the Geothermal Power Plant, nice and warm, protected from the cold, snow and howling winds outside. With all the equipment laid out to dry in every room, close to the heaters.

Tonight Mike will talk about survival in Arctic conditions and all the ‘must knows’ about equipment, pitching tents in strong winds, clothing care and cooking, etc. Subjects that he is very knowledgeable about after surviving three full years in the Arctic during his many expeditions. This morning Mike asked them if they think they could survive for 27 months as he did on his journey around the world along the Arctic Circle, living two Siberian winters, from day to day. There were a couple of headshakes and the response from Mikki “you are crazy!”.

We have now changed our game plan and the new plan is to overnight at the Geothermal Power plant’s Hostel and head out in the morning with the snow rackets to explore a mountain range not far from here from where we can see the Pacific Ocean.

From there we plan to head out on the morning of the 3rd of Dec, 2 days earlier than previously scheduled from the Geothermal Power Plant, towards the north of Petropavlovsk where we will meet our dog mushing team Andrey and Anastasia. This works out well as this will give us two extra days with the dogs. We are all very excited and looking forward to this new experience of travelling with dog teams over the cold snow covered plains of the Land of Fire And Ice.

Please watch this space for more news to come in a couple of days.

All the best from Martin Horn and the rest of the Pangaea Expedition team.

Back to Expedition Timeline

Left, Right, Left, Right, Left Right…

These words are all that pass through your fighting mind as you achieve one foot in front of the other, 50 knot winds spare past your ears as you try navigate your way through the deep snow…. “STOPPPPP”!!!!… my team mate hails as our sled begins to over turn. With every breath, step, and struggle you become weaker and weaker, the threat of frost bite starts to become a nearing reality. “for the team, for the future and for our pride”, are the thoughts that motivate you when you yet again arrive at another valley to summit.
Leaving from Mutnovsky Geothermal power station early morning, all of us young explorers were very excited to experience for the first time the real true elements of Kamchatka, we were ready for anything, we thought. Setting off with sleds to follow, heavily loaded with our equipment. Bodies covered and equipment strategically packed. Our goal was set for a small volcanologist Cabin at the base of Mutnovsky Volcano, where we planned to set up base camp.

Quickly we learnt from our mistakes, to walk with power, as a team, navigation, and speed but with agility. All these qualities we learnt to enhance and master with every thought and action of “left, right” which prepared us for what was to come…

Darkening clouds cover, blizzard conditions thicken, head winds harden, and our clothing stiffens. Ice invades our faces freezing everything left exposed. As the seconds pass the elements of the brewing storm grow stronger. Our speed and pace begins to slow, to then result in a halt. It becomes obvious that the conditions are at their peak. Over 50 knots of wind makes it a struggle to stand. Horizontal bullets of snow pierce our bodies. The decision is made to set up base camp right at the spot where we found ourselves. Panic set in as we rushed to pitch our tents.

Suddenly excruciating pain rapidly fires up my right hand, from unbearable pain which made me want to scream, I realize I have made a huge mistake, one that may change the status of my future. I have been caught with one hand out of my glove…

My hand then hardens and feeling is no more… with panic flashing through my mind, I yell at the top of my lungs for Fred our mountain guide as he walks past me. But with the wind like bullets, hearing is impossible. With my condition worsening, it becomes clear to me that I am alone; I am the only sole person that can decide my hands fate. In panic and struggle I strip open my bag, the last option I have is to hope and search for a lifesaving spare pair of gloves. “Bang” a huge beat of my heart as my eyes sight what I had hoped. In seconds I have my hand wrapped and safe but with no feeling. I franticly fight throwing my hand towards the ground to restore warmed blood to my fingers. Feeling starts to restore, and movement is again possible.
Coming so close to the threat of frost bite, I had my first encounter with the real strength of the elements in Kamchatka, This is no game. Exploring with Mike Horn is the real world!

I fall off to sleep, an amazing day, one I could name the best day of my life… but tomorrow`s venture is to follow. “live to learn, and learn to act”.

Good Night

Today the 30th of November, Maricela and I were the day leaders, in charge of coordinating the days activities. So the main things that we have planned to do today were the following: visiting of Mutnovskaya Geopower Station; then snow measurements; and finally the outdoor excursion, snowshoe walking towards Dachniy Hot Springs.

In spite of not being given the authorization to get inside the main building of Mutnovsky Geostation, we were given an outside tour by the manager of station. He briefed us on the history and specific function of it and informed us of the most important fact that this station on output (after using of natural resources: water and steam) gives us back an absolutely ecologically clean product. Also it works in a closed circle, so the same resources are used many times and the last fact is that this station supplies a third of all Kamchatka’s needs in electricity. Undoubtedly all these aspects are very important when we are talking about ecologically sustainable development of the Earth. This is a great paragon. That’s why this station was built in record time of 2 years.

After the tour of the outside buildings and installations we had an opportunity to make snow measurements directly near the thermal station on the bank of artificial warm (due to thermal water) current. We took a lot of tdifferenet ypes of measurements. We took snow temperatures at different depths, analyzed the structure and size of snow, measured its density and content of water. After this, we started to jump in the snow and a snowball fight started with snowballs, make different ridiculous actions.

Being under a deep impression of Mutnovsky geostation and possibility of producing the energy from natural gas, during our debrief Mike advised us of a prototype of absolutely new way of producing power. It confines of making power from gas, which is produced by man.

Could you ever imaging that here in such unbearable conditions where temperatures can drop down to 30 degrees below zero, blizzards could happen suddenly and weather could change from one moment to the next. In such a place it is possible to grow fruits and vegetables! Dachniy Hot Springs show that marvels can happen in any place. So here among ice-capped volcanic mountains and white high density snow is a small oasis of warmth and life. Steam flows through out the cracks and boiling water flows down the slope, and among all of this there is a place for some plants and bacteria to live.

A mixture of mountain chains and volcanoes surrounding a small snow covered town in the middle of nowhere, men in long dark coats speaking an unknown language and crisp winter air filling your lungs with every breath condensing in front of your face. After 3 flights, many hours of travelling through 11 time zones I am finally here. Welcome to the land of fire and Ice, welcome to one of the most beautiful places on earth, welcome to Kamchatka.

After a month of anticipation, preparation and excitement I really did not know what to expect  and decided to come on this journey with an open heart, seeing what the adventure in this unknown region of the world had to teach me. I want to learn about myself, about the environment, people and culture and how I can get slightly closer to my aim in life and make a positive change in the world.

Our first day started beautifully, stepping outside to blue skies, sunshine and the two volcanoes, Avachinsky and Koryaksky rising high above Petropavlovsk I felt a surge of excitement for the weeks ahead. A 7 hour  journey in a truck with 6 wheels called an Ural by the Russian locals, took us the 75 km from  Yelizovo to the isolated Mutnovsky geothermal power station at the end of the road, guarded by the proud standing 2322 meter high Mutnovsky Volcano. All that surrounds us now is the smell of sulphur in the fresh mountain air, the sound of the howling wind drowning out the power station and a seemingly endless expanse of white. It’s crazy how quickly the weather changes in this place.

There was even a good joke by Dima our Expedition photographer which said “if you don’t like the current weather just wait for 5 minutes” It is fascinating to be in this geothermal power station especially as it was my research topic for the trip, I have just presented my project to the group and a great discussion on renewable energy resources was triggered. Everybody seems to have wonderful ideas and I have so much to learn from all of the team, we have also been busily preparing with Franziska Koch from the University of Munich the data that we want to collect. Starting with the area around the plant we will be testing the snow, recording meteorological data and also conducting several experiments on the thermal springs.

The ideas, excitement and energy of the team is wonderful, we all seem to be motivated and mentally preparing ourselves for the colder days ahead, hearing the stories of various members of the team is inspiring and I feel that staying warm, positive and happy is going to be more about conquering a mental barrier than a physical one. The adventure has started let’s see where it takes us…

Back to Expedition Timeline
 

On the 28th of November, the Pangaea Expedition’s Young Explorer Programme kicks off its 7th expedition in one of the most stunning places this world has to offer.

The Kamchatka Peninsula, a Unesco World Heritage Site, known for its many volcanoes, geothermic activity and astounding wildlife, now faces the grasps of winter.

Expedition leader, Mike Horn revels in the idea of getting to the Arctic again. His 3 years of combined Arctic and Antarctic experience will be invaluable as the team of 6 international youths, mountain guides, scientific advisor, Doctor and local specialists undertake a three week overland trek using snow shoes and dog sled whilst visiting the volcanoes and geothermic regions of this spectacular peninsula.

The journey will begin in Petropavlovsk on Sunday when all members join together for their first Expedition briefing.

Follow Mike and the Young Explorers on their daily blogs and photos as they carry out the Pangaea Expedition’s maxim: EXPLORE – LEARN – ACT.

EXPLORE with professional explorer and Expedition Leader Mike Horn the Mutnovsky, Goryeliy , Avachinsky volcanoes and the Dachniy Hot Springs.

LEARN with scientific advisor, Dipl. Geogr. Franziska Koch, from the University of Munich and local experts about scientific exploration and regional geothermic activities. Visit to the Mutnovsky Geotherm Station.

ACT YEP presentation at Yelizovo School. Associating with regional schools for ACT project and environmetal programmes.

The 6 Young Explorers are:
Saraya D`Àth, 15, Australia / Hayden Cockburn, 20, New Zealand / Carla Mckenzie, 19, South Africa / Michaela Korodimou, 18, UK / Maricella Uribe, 19, Switzerland / Pavel Kuchinov, 21, Russia.

For further information please contact:

Cathy Horn
Administration and Logistics
Mike Horn Expedition Center | Place Centrale | 1660 Château-d'Oex | Switzerland
Tel: +41(0)26 924 3725 | Mobile: +41(0)79 2898129 | Fax: +41(0)26 924 3723
[email protected] | https://www.mikehorn.com