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Himalaya Expedition – Day 19

19.06.2010 Phonecall from Mike "The YEP's and I have parted company now. After doing the summit 'Pangaea Peak', they joined myself and Köbi to the base camp of Broad Peak where they were able to see the K2 Memorial – a touching memorial for all those alpinists who had lost their lives to the mountain. Our last night together with the Young Explorer's was spent in a large dome tent where we chatted about our adventure and shared our emotions and impressions of the last two weeks we had spent together.

Now it is just myself and Köbi who are left here in the high altitudes of the Himalayas.

I heard just now that the Young Explorers have reached Payu today and are once again back in the heat of the lower altitudes. They managed to have cold showers so I'm sure they must be feeling great. They are on track for Askole and Skardu and running to schedule.

Myself and Köbi have just returned to the base camp of Broad Peak. Köbi and I left at 4 am this morning and ascended 2'000m, up and down again in 9 hours. Köbi is an experienced Himalyan alpinist, having already climbed 5 summits above 8'000 meters.

The climb to 7'000m was difficult because of the quantity of deep snow we encountered but we are well acclimatised and are both in top condition physically.

At 7'000meters we set up camp in preparation for the summit attempt. We took up a tent, sleeping mats, food and cooker.

Now we must rest and wait for the correct weather window before attempting the Broad Peak summit of 8'047m.

I'm excited – You should have seen the view at 7'000m today! It was a beautiful day and the scenery spectacular. I hope we'll be so lucky to have the same weather in the next few days.
 

Himalaya Expedition – Day 18

The YEP's continue their downwards trek. They have left the Baltoro Glacier and have arrived today at Kubutze which is at 4'000m of altitude. Tomorrow they should arrive at Paiyu.

Still reeling in the summit and their experiences with Mike and the Pangaea Team, the Young Explorers have many things to discuss on the downward trek, especially how they can join together forces and gather support to help protect this majestic environment for the future generations.

Himalaya Expedition – Day 17

Alexis has just sent a message. The weather has improved and visibility is once again restored to normal.The YEP's, Pangaea Team and Nazir Sabir's group of porters are now heading down in altitude and will be sleeping at Goro II this evening. The YEps are all fine and in high spirits … just a few sore feet and new muscles that are beginning to ache with the descent!!

Himalaya Expedition – Day 15

June 15th 2010 – Day 15

From Alex & Basil

After the successful attempt of the virgin peak above 6'000m, we were prepared to leave Ali Camp for Concordia. Before departing, we did a clean-up exercise to ensure that the campsite remains as unpolluted as how we have seen it the first time. In addition, we convinced some porters to bring the rubbish back down instead of burning it.

On the way down Baltoro Glacier, more than 70 porters created a massive line, which stood out extremely well in the snow. Staying at such high altitudes for a few days did help in the acclimatization of our bodies, making the trek back to Concordia less strenuous and difficult. 

Upon reaching Concordia, we were delighted to see Alexis and Basil again. It was a pity that they could not follow us to Ali Camp. During lunch, we realized that Dmitry was not with us! We were worried that he might have fallen into a crevasse as there was bad weather brewing in Baltoro. After sending a small search party, Dmitry was spotted not too far away. The reason behind his delay? Photos!!!

Some of the young explorers did their interviews with cameraman Moose about the climb. Next, we did the famous step test with the Mayo Clinic. The comparison of the results of the previous step test done at Concordia a few days ago, underlined the fact that most of us were now more acclimatized to the current altitude as we were living on higher grounds for the past few days. This was shown by a higher percentage of our oxygen saturation level in our blood.

During tea, the young explorers came together to discuss the possible names for our mountain. It was a highly heated, but friendly debate. However, after much time, no conclusion has been made. The young explorers decided to spend more time during the return leg to brainstorm new ideas for the name.

The next day, we will trek to the base camps of K2 and Broad Peak where Mike and Kobi will set off for their climb to these summits. In addition, we will have the opportunity to visit the K2 memorial to understand and learn about the dangers behind this unforgiving mountain.

Basil:
Dear all! If you have not seen me in the recent photos or videos, do not fret! I’m back! Yup, I did not have the chance to reach the physical summit of the mountain.  I have been staying in Concordia with Alexis for the past 3 nights. Our friendly host was a group of local environmentalists who are cleaning up Baltoro Region during the trekking season.

Let’s have a flashback to the 12th of June 2010. In the morning, I was feeling really good to trek to Ali Camp, our Base Camp. However, after 40 minutes of trekking, a partially recovered fractured ankle, a severe cough and a breathless me, I was maxed out and started to drift away from the group. Every step I took was taking up much of my energy and it was impossible to travel together with the group. It was then, I realized, I had to turn back. This is the first time I have experienced reaching my personal physical and mental limits. There was no strength left within me to continue. With that realization, I cried, a sign of my emotional inability to acknowledge the fact that I would not be climbing with the team. If I have continued, I might lose my life or endanger the lives of others. It was not wise to jeopardize the success and safety of the climb.

As I reluctantly witnessed the team distanced from me in the snow, I made my way back to Concordia. Upon reaching, I was greeted by a group of friendly Pakistanis who are involved in cleaning Baltoro Glacier. I realized that an excellent opportunity has presented itself! I would be able to focus on the ‘Learn’ & ‘Act’ philosophies of the exploration. The ‘Keep Baltoro Clean’ Group comprises 7 strong individuals who will stay in the mountains for up to 3 months.

A chat with the leader of ‘Keep Baltoro Clean’, Mohammad Raza, helped me understand a few facts. Last year, the group collected a total of 10,300 KG of rubbish from the campsites. This year, they have plans of collecting 12,000 KG of waste. A further enquiry made me realized that they did not have the autonomy to clean up the military campsites which are very much polluted. After a short discussion, I felt extremely fortunate to be able to spend a few days, living the Balti culture in the mountains, carrying out tasks and discussing problems and solutions together with these like-minded locals. As the other members of the expedition were scaling the summit, I was the representative in climbing the environmental ‘summit’ of Baltoro Glacier.

Over the days, while recuperating, I was deeply engaged in serious discussions of waste management, sanitation and the living conditions of the porters on the Baltoro Glacier. One of the discussions was the installations of proper toilets in the camps so that the waste can be transported properly to a location to be converted as fertilizer. Another topic was the provision of adequate shelter for the porters who were currently living in snow caves covered by plastic sheets in the cold and harsh conditions. We discussed about ways to get sustainable shelter for the porters who carry up to 40 KG of load and trek up to 8 hours a day.

In addition, I was involved in some cleaning up around Concordia. It appeared that proper education of waste management was not provided to the guides and porters as they tried to burn the rubbish. Most of the rubbish would not combust in the snow leaving kerosene and partially burnt rubbish all around the campsites. The team aimed to educate the guides and porters to ensure that they bring the rubbish down or risk getting a fine from the environmental enforcers of the Baltoro Glacier.

The strong Balti culture exuded by the team allowed me to adapt to the culture quickly. Simple meals consisting of Chapatti and a single vegetarian dish were tasty, yet nutritious.  I ever had the chance to try my hands on making Chapatti! Listening to classical Balti music and watching the squabbles about political parties were part of the never-boring routines. The last night, before the rest of the expedition team met us, ended off with a huge bang with the team singing and celebrating to the voices of a united Balti Culture.

Overall, the days spent in Concordia was extremely, unexpectedly fulfilling. I was able to have close interactions with the locals. The sharing of ideas and discussions were extremely crucial in sustaining the Baltoro Glacier. The cleaning up in Concordia further ensured the success of the Pangaea Expedition in the Himalayas.

News came yesterday that the summit was reached. I was delighted that the attempt to climb the virgin peak was successful. In the meantime, I was attempting the other ‘summit’ for Mother Nature.

I will break off with the team again tomorrow and start an early descent back to Askole as I am expecting myself to take a day more with my ankle still in bad shape. Mike was actually suggesting a helicopter to bring me down! That would have been amazing, breathtaking and extremely costly. I will travel with another porter and may not see the group for a few days! Stay tuned to hear about my extraordinary experience back down!

 

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Himalaya Expedition – Day 14

 June 14 th 2010 – Summit Day


Today was one of those days that you do not want to forget for a long time. With allot of hard work will power and dedication the young explorers stood proudly on the summit of an unclimbed peak, it is now up to them to name the peak, and that part of the Baltoro history has been written.


Seeing them from a distance climbing to the top and being the first expedition this year to reach an unnamed summit in the Karakoram mountain range, made me extremely proud of what they have achieved.
It was not only a physical mountain they were climbing but an internal mountain, growing inside them self's each step of the way.  This achievement will make them better people and will change their life's forever. A unique opportunity provided to them that they grabbed on with both hands and treasured all the way to the top.


In today's life we as adults try and protect our kids, taking opportunities to grow away from them, instead of setting them free, giving them wings to fly so that they can discover their own capabilities and who they really are.

With this I would like to thank all my sponsors for giving us all in Pakistan this unique opportunity.


Mike Horn

 

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Himalaya Expedition – Day 13

13th of June – Day 13 Mike writes…

We have walked for 9 days to be at this point. Tonight we will make our first attempt to summit the unnamed peak at just above 6000m. I can feel the tension building up amongst the YEP’s. What we have spoken about for so long now will soon be a reality.

After setting up our 3 man Quechua tents at the foot of the mountain we had a short rest to adapt to the altitude. We had time to boil some water and test our new light weight Optimus stoves for the climb. After having some tomato soup we packed our Petzl climbing gear in the tent and started our trek back to Ali Camp. It was only a 4km walk but it took us over 2 hours because of the altitude. All the YEP’s are doing well. Some have light headaches, which is normal due to the altitude and discomfort due to the heavy climbing shoes and backpacks.

The afternoon was used to download some data for the Mayo clinic, eat and sleep.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank all our sponsors on behalf of the young Explorers who made it all possible for us to be here it has been a life changing experience for all of us.

I had contact with Alexis and Basil at Concordia and they have decided not to come up to basecamp but to wait for our return the day after tomorrow. All is well with them and they are enjoying the view of K2 and true Pakistan hospitality.

Sorry for the short update but I need some sleep before we wake up at midnight to do our summit push.
Please enjoy your warm and comfortable beds tonight while we make our way to the summit and down in the next 24 hours.

Best Regards,

Mike Horn.


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Himalaya Expedition – Day 12

12th June 2010 – Day 12

Today was a day with mixed emotions after our rest day at Concordia, because of the decision that Basil and Alexis made to stay in lower Altitude. Basil has worked very hard to get to Concordia and will need another rest day. I hope he feels better and that he can come up with some porters to meet us in Ali Camp tomorrow.

We had an early start and an easy walk up the glacier on virgin snow and ice. The trek to Ali camp, our base camp for the next 4-5 days, took only 4 hours and we arrived just in time to set up our tents before the storm came in. We are at 5'100 masl surrounded by some of the most amazing mountains in the world with nobody around, but us! Exactly how I like it.

The climbing conditions seem to be favorable. A few big avalanches come down which will make the climb safe for us. Caroline has sent us the weather report from Switzerland and it looks good to go up the mountain the day after tomorrow.

The rest of the day we sorted out all our technical climbing equipment and we are ready to head off early tomorrow morning to set up our Advanced Base Camp. The YEP’s are all very motivated to get to the summit and from now on every bit of energy spent will be needed to get to the top, but more important than getting to the top, will be to get everybody safe and sound again down the mountain.

Mike Horn

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Himalaya Expedition – Day 11

11th of June 2010 – DAY 11
 

Concordia, 4700m

Today was a rest day at Concordia camp. Before going ahead, everyone needed to relax a bit. This day also allowed us to sort out the techincal equipment we will need for the climb.

We started with the breakfast at 8am and quickly took the most of this very sunny day to make some photos in this beautiful environment. The surrounded mountains gave us a nice and famous backgroud.

The Mayo Clinic team set up the step test (as they did in Payu) and monitored all of us. As they could expect, the oxygen saturation was dropping for everyone and Bryan and Andy could get some interesting results.

After a good lunch, most of us took the time to relax and start to sort out their equipment. Erwan and Alex went throught the technical equipment and set up the crampons and harnesses for everyone. We finished the day with the packing of the equipment as the porters wanted to take their loads this evening still.

Tomorrow we will start to walk at 5am. This will allow us to still walk on the hard frost ice. As their will be quite a lot of snow on our way to Ali Camp, we prefer to start the day early to avoid sinking in a soft snow every two steps.

After a very nice dinner, as usual, everyone went to bed early to get ready for the long day that is waiting for us tomorrow.

 

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Himalaya Expedition – Day 10

Last night we had an interesting discussion in the mess tent about our purpose during this expedition in Pakistan. I had to put all the cards on the table about the main objective of the Pangaea project with the three main pillars explore learn an act. After pushing ourselves so hard to reach Concordia the YEP's had to be reminded that there was work to be done and not only walking and climbing.

Leaving Gora2 at 7am in perfect weather we soon noticed the altitude of about 4000m by the amount of snow that fell last winter, we could walk on a hard crust until about 09:00 and soon after that the sun came out in force and transformed the snow to slush, we all started breaking through the crust knee to hip deep and it slowed us down allot. It was like walking on eggs waiting for them to break.


The terrain was smooth and we slowly gained altitude to 4600m at Concordia. Speaking to the guides and porters that have been coming up here for over 30 years they all said that they have never seen so much snow at Concordia at this time of the year.


All is going well with the team and we have adapted to the altitude in style.  Alexis had some problems adapting to the altitude but after some rest he seems to be Okay. This is what the research we are doing with the Mayo clinic wants to find out! What leads to Altitude sickness? Tomorrow will be a well-deserved rest day before we head up to Ali Camp that will be our Base camp before the climb of the unnamed peak.
I will keep you all informed on our progression as the days go by, stay posted because there will be allot of interesting things happening in thenext couple of days.

Mike Horn

 

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