Broad Peak – summit attempt

2nd July 2010

We have had bad weather since our first attempt to reach the summit of Broad Peak. Sitting in the tent waiting for better weather reminds me of fishing, you know what you waiting for but is it ever going to happen?

We are ready to climb, very well acclimatized and all our equipment is in place, ready to go to the summit. Today looks much better and some of the other expeditions has gone up to camp 2 to spend one night up there to acclimatize. Kobi and myself are waiting for a weather window to go up in Alpine style non-stop from base camp to the summit.

The conditions are not too bad up to camp three but we do not know what the snow conditions are going to be like when we do the final push to the summit. Amongst all the teams on Broad Peak, we have been up the highest and have opened the trail twice to above camp 2.

John and Ali our Pakistani Cooks have been looking after us very well and we have been eating like kings. Both Kobi and myself have been putting on weight because all we do while waiting, is eat.

I hope we will get our window to climb very soon so that we can move on to K2 as the days fly by and before we know it, the season will come to an end. The weather in the Baltoro is crazy and very difficult to predict, but all we need is max 2 days of good weather.

Please start doing the good weather dance and do not confuse it with the rain dance as we have had enough snow until now.

Best regards to all

Mike and Kobi